Peterborough and the Kawarthas Cycling Odyssey -Day 1

David, Dayle, Cindy, Wayne and I have set off on an adventure to Peterborough and the Kawarthas. We found a house on Vrbo, backing on the Otonobee River, to rent for six nights. We find it a low stress way to do a cycling trip and explore an area in detail without having to haul all our stuff on our bikes with us. It also allows us to adjust our destination each day depending on our energy level and the weather.

Also, I hate travelling light, and driving to the start of the trip, and staying in one place, allows me to take more with me. I did get down to a medium suitcase, which includes my pillows which I always prefer to pillows in other places, a cooler full of food, and a bike gear bag. I’m really happy with the bike gear bag which Wayne recommended. It’s divided, has lots of little pockets, and mesh to air things out when you put them back in at the end of the day after riding.

Cindy dropped her stuff at my house last night and rode her bike up this morning. David and Dayle picked us up there. They can fit two bikes in the van and two bikes on the rack and pack our luggage around the bikes.

We had an uneventful drive and arrived at a parking lot near a trail access for the Peterborough to Lindsay section of a rail trail that runs from Uxbridge in the west, to east of Peterborough. We had originally planned to ride the Uxbridge to Lindsay section today, but couldn’t find a good place to park the car east of Uxbridge. From what I could see on Google Streetview, the trail surface looked a bit rough on that section, anyway.

Wayne drove separately as he started in Tottenham.

Here we are ready to ride.

The first road we passed under had some interesting street art.

We are very fortunate in Brampton to be so close to the Caledon Trailway which is one of the best rail trails I have ever been on in terms of how well kept the surfaces are. I’ve been on worst ones than the one today, but it certainly wasn’t up to the quality of the Caledon Trailway – 75 km felt more like 100.

The trees were close to the trail without a lot of vistas, but 12 km into the ride we came to Doube’s trestle which was quite spectacular, and will be even more so the trees start to change color. Trains crossed this area starting in 1883. The original bridge was a wooden trestle that was later rebuilt. Passenger services ceased in 1962 on this line, and freight services in 1978.

There were a couple of bridges that we rode under that don’t appear to go anywhere, anymore and seem to be in quite a state of disrepair.

This rail trail is part of the Trans Canada Trail. When I saw this inukshuk I learned my bike against it to take a picture, but then realized that it would be better from the other side, not in shadow. Unfortunately I didn’t realize, as I stepped back to take a picture, that I was stepping down into a ditch with long foliage, at least half a metre deep. I didn’t fall, but landed very hard, and sprained my ankle. It wasn’t too troublesome on the bike, but when I got off when we got back to the car I could barely put my weight on it. Over the evening with elevation and icing it’s gotten better, then worse again when I stop elevating and icing. I’m hoping it will be better in the morning. There isn’t much swelling or bruising, at this point, at least.

We passed over another smaller bridge with some pretty views.

In some places the trail was less than ideal with grass down the middle, and loose lime stone screenings.

This is the Trent Severn Canal coming into Lindsay where somebody has encouraged people to create a rock snake along the edge of the trail.

We had lunch at The Queen’s Bistro just a block off the trail.

Then we did a quick tour of Lindsay’s Main Street. They have a pretty town hall and have recently redone their main street with crosswalks and wider sidewalks. It always amazes me how much better preserved, and thriving many small Ontario downtowns are, compared to Brampton’s.

We stopped briefly at the Lindsay lock and saw the lock keepers manually opening the lock for a small boat to pass through.

The locks connect Lake Scugog and the Kawarthas. The lock in Lindsay was first built in 1844.

At many of the roads they had signs showing the name of the road, the crossing ahead, the crossing behind, and the distances.

The house we are staying in is immaculate. David and Dayle, Cindy, and Wayne, kindly carried my stuff in and let me sit down and elevate my foot.

Wayne picked up food from a local restaurant called Marty Moos. The ribs were excellent.

It might rain tomorrow, but the forecast is nowhere near as bad as it was a couple days ago. We’ll decide what to do in the morning based on the weather and, for me, based on how my ankle feels.

Whitby Getaway- Day 4

I awoke before my alarm this morning and the sun was shining in the window. Cindy already had the coffee ready and we enjoyed a cup before taking Oakley for a walk. Oakley seems to know all the dogs in the neighborhood, and there seem to be a lot. One particular dog visits and comes right up to the house every day for a treat that is kept in the mailbox.

A cycling advocate that I know from Durham warned me that there might be a “Freedom” Protest at the corner of Garden Street and Rossland. I checked and it wasn’t on our route for the morning but was on a return route for the afternoon.

The morning started at 4°, but felt very warm as we walked Oakley. By the time we left it was 12° with a forecast high of 14°. Again we dressed in layers. We left all the rain gear at home which lightened our load.

We hadn’t gotten very far before we had to pull over and start removing layers as it was already quite warm in the strong sunshine.

We headed east and north and it wasn’t long before we were seeing beautiful pastoral scenes.

The route took us on very lightly travelled country roads.

Yesterday‘s weather forecast was for winds from the north east in the morning and the south in the afternoon, which would have meant headwinds in both directions, but fortunately, by the time we headed out, the winds were already from the south and we had a tail wind helping us up some of the hills.

As we were heading away from Lake Ontario there were a lot of hills to climb. Near Port Perry the land went gradually down towards Lake Scugog.

Port Perry is a busy little town of just under 10,000 residents, with a fairly large, well preserved Main Street, with lots of stores, restaurants, and coffee shops. There was even a bike store there.

The oldest grain elevator in Canada is on the shores of Lake Scugog in Port Perry, and was built in 1874.

We rode along the main street and then over to the marina where we found a small restaurant at which we could place our orders while outside and eat on a patio. It was ideal.

They also had some nice colourful chairs set up to view the marina.

After lunch we cycled back up the main street.

We decided to get coffee and cookies before leaving town because we knew the rest of the route would be mostly rural with no further opportunity for food.

This library building opened in 1935 and was used until the early 1980s when an expansion was needed. However due to flooding of the adjacent Bowling Green the library could not be expanded. Today it houses a financial services business, and a new library was built elsewhere in Port Perry.

The busier roads that we travelled on today had generous shoulders which allowed us to ride side-by-side when traffic was light.

Because of the rolling hills and the crosswinds as we headed west, we were very happy to turn south despite the headwind, to head back into Whitby,. It was mostly downhill but there were a lot of rolling hills that meant we still had a fair bit of climbing even though overall we were travelling downhill towards Lake Ontario. The app I use for planning and navigation, Ride with GPS, has an elevation profile, but it’s not always accurate. We thought we were done climbing at this point but the reality on the road was different from the route profile. It was also quite amusing each time the app mixed up metres and kilometres when telling us the distance to the next turn. There seems to be a bug in the latest update. I haven’t encountered this before.

We found a masked tin man and couldn’t resist stopping to take pictures.

This was another interesting scene which gave us an excuse to stop and catch our breath after a long climb.

We knew we were nearly back home when we cross the 407.

Unfortunately the next road we had to cross was Highway 7 with no traffic light in sight in either direction. It was a few minutes of waiting until there was a long enough clearance of traffic in both directions for us to cross safely.

When we arrived at Garden and Rossland there was no sign of the protest we had been warned about. I’m not sure if it didn’t materialize or it had just finished before we got there.

We rode 71 km today with over 700 m of climbing which is a fair bit on such a distance.

We finish the day with G&Ts with Cindy’s nephew, and ordered ribs, wings, fries, and onion rings for dinner. I was so full when I finished I’m not sure if I’ll have room for ice cream tonight.

Tomorrow we head home using a combination of riding and GO train.

Whitby Getaway – Day 3

It rained heavily overnight, and was still raining quite a bit when we got up to walk the dog at 7:30, so we delayed over coffee, until the rain tapered off.

We took our time getting ready and having breakfast, to give the roads time to mostly dry up before leaving. We dried our chains off last night, but didn’t oil them, and had some rust this morning, so oiled them before we left.

The plan was to do a shorter day today and explore Brooklin, a Heritage Conservation District in north Whitby.

We travelled on a lovely trail through the Heber Down Conservation Area.

I record all my rides on an app called Strava. It records your precise route and statistics for the ride.

Early in the pandemic I discovered a website called Statshunters. When you authorize the website to use your Strava history it creates a map of all the places you have been.

The tiles divide the world into a grid of 16,384 by 16,384 squares, each one is about 2 km wide. It’s a fun pursuit to try to visit as many tiles as you can using only human power. Statshunters shows you all the tiles you have visited (red if not in your square or cluster), and also the largest square of tiles you have (in blue) and the largest cluster of tiles (green). A tile is in the cluster if you have all the tiles that connect to it.

When I first started looking at my map I had a 9 x 9 square which by carefully planning my rides I have expanded to 24 x 24. My max cluster is 1172 tiles. And I have visited 3320 tiles all together.

The tiles I had in this area date back to my Ottawa to Brampton ride in 2017. The next two screen caps show my map of this area last week and today.

Often when I plan a tile ride I am planning to pick up tiles more than paying attention to what roads or trails I am going on, so sometimes even though I planned the ride, as I ride it I encounter surprises, and generally they’re good. I didn’t realize we were going on this lovely path until we got there.

It has inspired me to ride in places I haven’t been before and to see new things.

Tomorrow we will be doing a large loop around Whitby which left 13 tiles in the centre which I haven’t been through. Tomorrow’s ride will be a longer one so today we decided to do a short one and pick up the centre tiles.

The conservation area had a nice rest area, bike repair stand, and bike rack just before we exited.

There was a stiff direct headwind which made going tough. This is Cindy crossing the 407. Most of the rural roads we were on today had fairly decent shoulders.

When we got to Brooklyn we briefly stopped at the library and recreation centre where they had some cute pennyfarthing bike racks. We made use of the bathrooms and then headed a few kilometres north of Brooklyn into the wind, before turning back and enjoying a wonderful free wheeling ride back down.

The reason we went north of Brooklin was to pick up tiles. Today I got 13 new tiles and traversed 15. Yesterday nine of the tiles out of 20 were new to me, and on Monday five of the tiles out of 24 were new.

We had lunch at the Brooklyn pub which had a nice sunny sheltered patio. We split a wrap, fries, and salad because the portions were large. We saw a few older homes in Brooklyn, but mostly it seems to be new subdivision spurred by the nearby Highway 407.

When we got back into the main part of Whitby we stopped at Panera bread for an “everything but the kitchen sink” cookie and coffee.

Then we explored downtown Whitby. They have a very nice library on Dundas Street.

There is a sculpture out front of Sir William Stevenson, whose nickname was Intrepid. Whitby was home to Camp X, a top-secret World War II spy training school. Stevenson was a Sopwith Camel Flying Ace credited with shooting down 12 enemy aircraft in World War I. He also escaped a prisoner of war camp in 1918. He went on to become an inventor and wealthy businessman. He enhanced a facsimile device that revolutionized the newspaper industry by enabling the wireless transmission of photographs. He was also involved in radio and aircraft manufacturing, steel for auto manufacturing, construction and cement. Winston Churchill requested that Stevenson run the British security coordination from North America.

The objectives of camp acts included training students in sabotage, subversion, deception, intelligence gathering, lock picking, explosives handling, radio communications, and coding/decoding, recruitment methods for the resistance movement, the art of silent killing, and unarmed combat. Over 500 agents were recruited, trained, and sent from Camp X in Whitby to be assigned to various covert missions.

The former site of camp X is now known as Intrepid Park. We unknowingly rode through it yesterday. I recalled as we read about The Man Called Intrepid that we saw a sign about Camp X when we rode past the site in 2017 on the way home from Ottawa.

We then went looking for a building where Cindy’s husband acted in a film, Saving Dinah. It was the built in 1854 and was a trial court and a meeting place for County Council.

We then rode over to the Trafalgar Castle school, a private school for girls. Tuition starts at $26,000, and boarding fees are another $64,000. The school was built in 1859.

After leaving the school we passed this cute tiny home in someone’s backyard. I’m not sure if someone actually lives in it because dwelling in accessory structures is not permitted in Whitby, but it looks too nice to just be a shed.

The weather was lovely and warm when we returned so we finished our ride with gin and tonic on the porch.

Unfortunately the robin who has made a nest on the light behind us wasn’t thrilled with our use of the porch.

We had steak for dinner with Cindy‘s nephew and Cindy just twisted my arm into having a bowl of ice cream for dessert since I had brewed coffees rather than lattes today and needed the calcium.

One of the great things about riding a bike a lot is not needing to worry too much about what I eat.

Take note the name of the wine on the bag left for us by Cindy’s sister.

Whitby Getaway – Day 2

We got up and took the dog for a walk this morning at 7:30. It’s always funny walking someone else’s dog and encountering the other dog walkers who recognize the dog but not the people with her.

We returned to the house for breakfast and checked the weather forecast to find that the day looked pleasant until about 2pm at which point rain was forecast. We dressed In layers to be warm enough when starting out, but have the ability to easily make adjustments as we warmed up. We also packed rain gear.

Over breakfast I planned the route. We decided to ride the Waterfront Trail East to Oshawa, and then to a loop around Oshawa which was shared by Durham region to promote cycle tourism in the area. I used Ride with GPS to create a route from where we’re staying, south to the Waterfront Trail, and to connect to the Oshawa loop. Ride with GPS is a great tool for planning rides and navigating them , as it provides turn by turn directions when you purchase a basic account.

We left at 9:30 and had to cross the 401, but the traffic wasn’t too bad. We often try to plan our highway crossings for roads that have no on and off ramps, but that wasn’t convenient this morning.

Whitby has a pleasant waterfront which is connected by the Waterfront Trail to the east and west.

Like yesterday there were many areas where we felt quite far removed from civilization and given the time of year we didn’t encounter a lot of other people using the trail.

We encountered some nice new paved sections. It’s hard to tell in this picture, but this was quite a hill to climb and you can see that the woman is standing on her pedals as she reaches the top.

Oshawa is building a new park named for Ed Broadbent.

Oshawa has two nice trail systems showcased on the route. We went north on the Harmony Creek Trail. We left the trail briefly for lunch at Coffee Culture adjacent to the trail.

The trails went through tunnels under the roads so it was a seamless experience.

We deviated slightly from the route to visit Parkwood. Parkwood was built starting in 1916 for Sam McLaughlin of the McLaughlin Motor Car Company, which was the first major automobile manufacturer in Canada. It became part of General Motors in 1918 and McLaughlin became president of the Canadian company and a vice president of the American corporation. He was a philanthropist who provided funds to build the McLaughlin planetarium and buildings at Queens University. The home was left to the Oshawa General Hospital upon his death.

The gardens were impressive even with the fountains off and pools emptied and plants just starting to bloom.

We then headed south to the Oshawa Valley Botanical Gardens.

A local high school class made these mushrooms and donated them to the gardens.

The route was unexpectedly routed through a parking lot, prominently marked as private which belonged to a car wash, but we continued anyway.

We continued south along the Joseph Kolodzie/ Oshawa Creek Bike Path and detoured slightly to look at Oshawa City Hall, the McLaughlin public library, and McLaughlin Gallery.

They had a piece of art by Douglas Coupland on the outside of the gallery. Coupland is a Canadian novelist, designer, and visual artist. His first novel, Generation X: Tales for an Accelerated Culture, popularized the terms Generation X and Mcjob.

This path went under the 401, which is always welcome, compared to riding over highways with or without ramps. Hopefully it will be cleaned up when construction finishes.

Shortly after getting south of the 401, it started to rain. right on schedule. We stopped and put on our rain gear and rode the last 20 km back home in the rain.

Our Slickers were covered in dirt as neither one of us have fenders on our bikes, but we left them on the porch to dry out and were able to brush it off once it dried.

We got in and made hot tea and snacked on nuts and raisins. I was so hungry. I don’t think I ate enough yesterday. We move straight from that to making and eating dinner, and ice cream for dessert.

There’s quite a bit of rain forecast overnight, but it’s supposed to clear by mid morning tomorrow, and the rest of the week is forecast to be quite pleasant.

Whitby Getaway – Day 1

Cindy and I tried to put together a trip along the Waterfront Trail from Brampton to Cornwall that would have been a mix of staying with a friend of Cindy’s, a cousin of mine, and some hotels. But it was too long a return trip and we couldn’t find a reasonable way to transport our bikes ones way. Via Rail doesn’t carry bikes right now in the Windsor – Quebec City corridor, and won’t until they have replaced their rolling stock.

Greyhound is gone. Megabus won’t transport bikes. A one way car rental started at $400 for the day, and shipping the bikes was hundreds of dollars each and required them to be dismantled.

Then Cindy found out that her sister, who lives in Whitby, was going south for a week. I joked that we could “explore the crap out of Whitby” and get lots of new Statshunter tiles. Cindy liked the idea, so we went with it.

We rode our bikes to Bramalea GO, and took the train to Guildwood, with a transfer at Union.

There’s some great graffiti on the way into Union but I didn’t get up fast enough to capture the best of it.

Each GO train has space for bikes at each end of the car, but only during non peak periods.

It was spitting a bit as we emerged from the station, but we had only a 5 minute ride to Guildwood park where we found a covered patio to eat our lunches. The rain stopped and we explored the grounds situated on the Scarborough Bluffs. It is a sculpture sanctuary, has preserved architectural fragments from demolished buildings, and beautiful gardens. The grounds also contain the oldest building in Scarborough, built in the 1790s.

I asked Ride with GPS to plan a route for us and I didn’t check it over. There were a couple questionable sections, but it’s all part of the adventure. We followed this desire line and had to dismount a couple times to skirt around wet mud for fear that we might get stuck and tip over with our heavily weighted bikes with panniers.

The path improved considerably after less than a kilometre, although it was washed out at one point near the lake,

Rouge Hill GO station has direct access to the Waterfront Trail and a bike share station so would make a nice trip out of Toronto and ride back in.

I really don’t know what someone is thinking when they decide to drop a bunch in Jersey walls in the middle of the path to try to force cyclists to walk their bikes. None of the bridges before or after had this set up. We just carefully negotiated our way out around the blocks and continued riding. Had we seen any pedestrians we would have given them the right away, as we did on bridges before and after this, as was signed.

It was nice to see this upgrade along Bayly Street where the waterfront trail jogs north to get around Frenchman’s Bay in Pickering. The second picture is from my trip in 2017 on the way home from Ottawa in the same location.

There’s a cute community at Pickering Beach. At this point we realized that we hadn’t had a coffee yet, but it was getting rather late in the afternoon, and the coffee shop at the beach had closed for the day. We decided not to ride up to the Tim Hortons on Bayly Street.

Weirdly, the boardwalk has disappeared from Pickering beach since I was there in 2017, as you can see in the second picture, but it was a long way to go back up to the Waterfront Trail so we pushed our bikes across the beach, which was hard going with the bike tires weighted so heavily with the panniers.

That’s the nuclear plant ahead and we are almost to the paved path. Whew!

There were lots of bridges to get across inlets and marshes along this section of the waterfront Trail. There were also clouds of midges from Petticoat Creek Conservation Area to where we left the Waterfront in Whitby. They got in our mouths and noses, and hitched a ride on our clothing. I was surprised to see so many this time of year.

This section of the trail through Ajax was twinned, with slower moving people expected to be on the right, and faster moving on the left. It must get pretty busy in the summer, but both paths were fairly empty today.

And here we are at our destination, extra hungry because it’s dinner time and we missed our coffee and cookie this afternoon.

Cindy’s sister left lots of food in the fridge for us and told us to help ourselves. It was a very comfortable end to another fun day of exploring on the bike.

New York City – Day 9

Park Avenue at 40th Street rises up to the second level of Grand Central Station. It then curves around to the east and then emerges at 46th Street, through the Helmsley building, coming down a ramp within the building. Southbound the road curves around the west side of the buildings. It’s a scene familiar to me from many movies, and one I had planned to walk up to and photograph when I arrived.

On the first morning I was here I walked over to scout the ramp on the way to Bryant Park, and realized that access was prohibited to pedestrians. Traffic also seemed heavy and there was a no space to walk beside the cars. When I went back to the hotel for my forgotten hearing aids, I spoke to the doorman about how to get up to the second level, and was told that the Hyatt entrance was permanently closed, and that there wasn’t another way for pedestrians to get up there. So I abandoned the idea, but kept thinking about it all week.

Last night I realized that there wasn’t a sign prohibiting bicycles, which are vehicles. So this morning I decided to take another look at it. The bike share station near the base of the ramp. I found these interesting brass inserts in the sidewalk on my way there.

When I got there I found that the traffic wasn’t too heavy, so I rode my bike up.

The ramps weren’t too steep so even on the three speed heavy Citi Bike it didn’t take a lot of effort. I was able to get some great views, and close-ups of the statue of Cornelius Vanderbilt – the man who built Grand Central Station the last reminding building of his buildings.

I took a picture of myself outside the closed entrance to the Hyatt. The road runs down the side of Grand Central Station, the side of the MetLife building, and then through the Helmsley building.

Once back down at ground level I did a U-turn and rode back through on the other side.

I messaged Michael that I was looking at the building that he’s been working in this week thinking maybe he could come and look out the window, but he didn’t get my message right away, and couldn’t have come to that window anyway as it is where the executives have their offices.

Once back at ground level I rode in the bus lane up 42nd St. I’ve observed that cyclists use the bus lanes when there are no bike lanes. I’m not sure whether this is legal or not, but decided to ride as the natives do.

My next stop was the New York public library. I had intended to visit the branch in Bryant Park. The nearest bike stand was kitty corner and as I parked the bike I realized that there was another branch right in front of me.

I went in to have a look around the main floor and as I was leaving I saw this cutaway of the library. It showed a rooftop terrace. I asked the security guard if it was open and was directed to the elevator which took me to the seventh floor.

It was an amazing space with views over the public library and Bryant Park.

When I finished there I walked across the street to the Bryant Park branch.

The architecture is the Beaux Arts style and the building opened in 1911.

It had a gift shop where I found a Ruth Bader Ginsberg book bag and swag section.

The interior is absolutely lovely.

There is a small section of Bryant Park at the front of the library with tables and chairs. The building on the left with the green roof is where I had just been out on the rooftop terrace.

From there I headed to Central Park to ride the full loop which is almost 10 km long. On the way I passed radio city music Hall.

I rode around Columbus Circle a couple times to take pictures and at first didn’t realize that the bike lane was on the inside, but traffic was light enough that there was no problem crossing to the inside to ride a full circle and then back to the outside to enter Central Park.

The warmth of the last week has caused the cherry blossoms to pop.

There were many people out enjoying the lovely spring weather.

I was concern trolled, by a woman about my age, riding her own bike in Central Park. She told me to be careful taking pictures while I was riding and then asked me where my helmet was. I told her not to worry, I had my mirror and was aware of what was going on around me, and that my helmet was back in Canada. It was a silly question. Helmets are neither required by law for adults here, nor generally worn, especially on the Citibikes. I do generally wear a helmet at home on my drop bar bikes, but it just didn’t feel necessary on the slower heavier Citibikes with their upright geometry. The cars are also generally moving quite slowly here compared to Brampton and even when there isn’t a bike lane, one can use the bus lane, or often just the curb lane, because the roads have so many lanes here there doesn’t seem to be a lot of contention between bikes and cars.

When I finished the loop I docked the bike and grabbed some lunch to eat in the centre of Columbus Circle which had lots of curved stone bench seating.

When I finished eating I had 45 minutes left before the check in time for my flight tomorrow, so I borrowed the bike again and rode down Central Park West past incredibly beautiful apartment buildings including the Dakota where John Lennon lived and was murdered out front.

I docked the bike and went back to Columbus Circle to check in for my flight and then got a coffee at a cart to drink in the circle.

I decided to ride back to the hotel straight down Broadway through Times Square.

When I got back to the dock near our hotel I messaged Michael to find out when he would be done work, but he didn’t see my message for a few minutes, and it was only 3 o’clock and so beautiful out that I decided to ride to Stuyvesant town. It is much more attractive at ground level than it appears in the aerial image in the linked article.

It is a large post World War II private residential development on the east side of Manhattan. It consists of 110 red brick apartment buildings and contains 11,250 apartments. It was very well-kept with the internal pathways for walking and biking only. There are underground garages for cars accessible from the main roads.

These apartments are aimed at middle class families. A two bedroom apartment rents for about $3200. About 500 apartments are set aside for low income families and cost about 1200 a month to rent.

On my way back I saw this cute public art in front of a Children’s Hospital.

These residential buildings are connected by a bridge halfway up.

I rode along 1st Avenue until I got 42nd Street, passing the UN which I visited on my second day here.

42nd Street doesn’t have a bike lane, but does have bus lanes and I rode up in the bus line just before 4pm. It amazes me how empty the streets are here at most times of day.

We went out to a place called Urbanspace to pick up dinner. It was an upscale food fair. There were picnic tables on the street outside, and the temperature was so pleasant, that we decided to eat there rather than take the food back to the room.

This was my view as we finished dinner.

We discovered what at least some of the honking around here is. Taxis pull up in front of this very large hotel and stop to let out their passengers, often in the bus lane when the curb lane is full, and the buses honk their horns angrily. I guess the same thing happens in front of Grand Central Station, and it’s probably repeated many times throughout the day. This is where we are staying.

Normally when I’m visiting a city I like to go out at twilight to take pictures, but I haven’t done that yet here this trip. Most evenings we’ve been out to pick up food before twilight, and by the time we finished eating it in the room it was full dark. So tonight it was twilight as we were finishing and we walked around a little bit to take a few pictures.

The centre building is the Chrysler Building which our room window faces.

This is the Helmsley building. The two open arches on the second floor open to the roadway I was riding on my bike this morning.

These are other views of the Chrysler building.

This is Grand Central Station and Park Avenue rising over Pershing Square and 42nd Street.

What a perfect way to end an amazing week in New York City.

New York City – Day 8

There is a constant cacophony of car horns around Grand Central Station and our hotel. However, this morning it had fallen silent. We opened the curtains to a bright sunny day and an empty 42nd St. We could see traffic cones and runners on the street. I wondered if it was an Open Streets or ciclovia day. I googled street closures and the date, and found an NYPD website with a huge list of streets closed for the return of the New York half marathon after two years of it being cancelled for the pandemic. 25,000 people were expected to run.

We went downstairs to head to Bryant Park for breakfast. We walked along 42nd St. watching the runners and it dawned on us that we were not going to be able to get across the street to Bryant Park. When we got close we asked a police officer who sent us through the subway station at 6th Avenue. There were no signs in the subway station, nor anyone to open the gate so as a crowd of people gathered, one person jumped over the turnstile and opened the gate from the inside to allow everyone to walk through. Probably no one in the crowd was planning on getting on the train. We all just wanted to get to the other side of the street. When we went back in employees were allowing people through the gate. After wandering around aimlessly for a while we found our way up to the park side.

We had breakfast at Pain Quotidian . It was delicious. The skating rink and Winter Village are almost completely dismantled now.

After finishing we headed back down into the subway to get back to the other side of 42nd St. There were signs to Times Square so we just walked all the way to there underground. This is called the 42nd St. connector. The two subway stations are connected by walkways as well as by train.

We saw these beautiful mosaics as we walked through the tunnel between the two stations. The artist is Nick Cave and the piece is called Each One, Every One, Equal All.

We emerged at Times Square to see even more runners going through the area which normally has rather restricted motor vehicle access with the plazas and bike lanes carved out of old road space, but had no vehicle access at all today.

When we finished looking at Times Square we went down into the subway to head to the world trade center. There were a lot of runners already finished waiting for the train. The first prize was $20,000.

The World Trade Center subway station is a modern clean one compared to some of the others in the system.

We visited 9/11 Memorial Park which has two huge fountains where the two towers used to stand.

The names of the victims are inscribed around the edges.

The streets around the park are closed off to motor vehicle traffic and some of them are heavily fortified as if another attack, from the ground, is expected.

The Koenig Sphere, a 25 foot bronze sculpture stood in the area before 9/11, and was recovered from the rubble at Ground Zero, and installed at the World Trade Center in Liberty Park in 2017 in memory of those who died on 9/11. The damage that the sculpture incurred was left when it was reinstalled.

There is also a 9/11 Memorial Museum on the site.

After that we visited the Oculus Transportation Hub. It is home to 12 subway lines, the World Trade Center PATH station, and dozens of retailers. It has access points across the entire 16 acre World Trade Center campus.

It was designed by Santiago Calatrava who designed the Peace Bridge in Calgary, the Galleria at Brookfield Place, and the Mimico Creek pedestrian bridge in Toronto.

The shape of the structure from the outside is meant to symbolize a hand releasing a dove. It’s orientation aligns with the sun’s angles on each September 11 from 8:46 AM, when the first plane struck, until 10:28 AM, when the second tower collapsed. Its central skylight fits this alignment and washes the oculus floor with a beam of light.

A mural has been painted on the metal structure that houses the Oculus’s cooling and operating equipment.

As we continued exploring the area and looking for lunch we passed St. Paul’s Chapel which was built in 1790, and undamaged when the twin towers fell, even though it is right across the street from where they were.

We found lunch at the Shake Shack in the Fulton Center. It has numerous subway lines running through it and a voluminous open area in the center. The wait to order and pick up the food was long, but once we finally got to City Hall Park to eat, we very much enjoyed our burgers and fries.

From there we decided to walk to Washington Square Park. On the walk we passed through TriBeCa (triangle below canal), which seemed to have a lot of people engaging in the sale of counterfeit purses, belts, watches, and sunglasses.

It was quite obvious as we got north of Canal and entered Soho (South of Houston), which seem to be a very popular shopping destination.

The line to get into Prada stretched around two sides of the building!

We spotted another weed truck just as we passed from Soho to Greenwich Village. New York University and Washington Park are in Greenwich Village.

We found coffee and sat in Washington Square Park to enjoy it. It was astonishingly busy with the smell of marijuana wafting in the air as we sat and walked around.

I’ve noticed that even the street musicians here have gone high tech for their donations. They’ll have a QR code that takes you straight to their Venmo account to make a small payment to them, or like this guy, he has it written on a sign.

From there we walked to Union Square Park, which is where we started walking yesterday. At that point we got on the subway and headed back to the hotel.

After a rest and figuring out where to pick up dinner we headed out to Pokiworks for another delicious meal.

I can’t believe I’ve been here eight days and have only one more day to explore. I think I’ll do that on the bike tomorrow. I’ll also have to get a Covid test, which hopefully will be negative, and assuming that it is, check in tomorrow afternoon to fly home on Tuesday

New York City – Day 7

When I opened the curtains this morning I could only see a few blocks due to thick fog. Last night when I went to sleep rain was forecast for the day today, but by the time I finished breakfast the fog was clearing and there was no longer rain in the forecast. We took our raincoats and umbrellas with us, just in case, and headed to St. John the Divine, the largest Gothic cathedral in the world, north of Central Park near Columbia University.

We needed to put additional funds on our Metro cards before we could use the subway. I learned that the act of putting your credit card into the machine and withdrawing it quickly is called dipping. The machine asked us to enter our ZIP Code to complete the credit card transaction. Inciting, we don’t have a ZIP Code.

Michael and I encountered this difficulty when we were in Chicago. We flew into Chicago and went straight from the airport terminal to the subway to ride downtown to our hotel. However when we tried to purchase farecards and were asked for our ZIP Code we were stymied. We tried putting in the ZIP Code of the hotel we were staying at, but there must be a check of the ZIP Code against the credit card address and the transaction was denied. In the end a kind transit employee allowed us to go through the gate without paying and told us to purchase the cards another time. The next day we tried again at a subway station in downtown Chicago, and were again denie, but fortunately there was an employee there who told us just enter five zeros instead of a ZIP Code, and it will work. It did.

Fortunately, Michael remembered this, and we were each just entered 00000 as the ZIP Code and the transaction was approved.

Many of the stations have three sets of tracks so that express trains can skip stations by running down the middle.

We booked a timed ticket for the Cathedral for 1030 and arrived in time to get a coffee. It’s not uncommon to see doors like this in the sidewalk as you walk through commercial areas. This is the first one that I saw open.

Michael pointed to a very ifamilar looking diner as we cross the street on our way to the cathedral after our coffee, but I couldn’t quite place it. He just told me now that it was the diner used in Seinfeld, and it clicked for me. I’ve taken a screen cap of it from Google to include here. I wish I had realized it this morning and gotten a selfie in front of it.

St. John is the largest cathedral in the world, and one of the five largest church buildings in the world. It is still under construction. Construction began in 1892. It will continue to be constructed over many centuries. Currently though their funding is directed to prioritize serving the community and maintaining the architectural integrity of the cathedral as it is currently constructed.

It doesn’t feel as big as some of the European ones we have been in, however, that might be due to the fact that we were unable to access much of it due to the unfinished nature.

Every April there is a blessing of the bikes at the Cathedral to kick off the riding season. Clearly they haven’t met me as I ride year round. I can tell that many people in New York also cycle year around, especially the food delivery cyclists.

There are a number of cute sculptures by Tom Otterness installed in the unfinished support columns of the cathedral.

There was a very odd fountain in the church gardens called the Peace Fountain. It is meant to represent the conflict between good and evil.

Someone at the Cathedral has a sense of humour and we found these signs on the grounds.

We also spotted this white peacock who apparently resides here.

There was very little traffic on the streets in this area of Manhattan.

We had lunch at a Jewish deli/Vietnamese noodle fusion restaurant called Wu + Nussbaum. The food was good.

On our walk to a bike share station at the north end of Central Park we passed this lovely fire station, the outside of one of the unfinished bits of the cathedral, which didn’t really match the rest of the cathedral, and the back of the cathedral.

The parks runs from 5th to 8th Avenue, and 59th – 110th Street. It is 4km long by 800m wide. We borrowed bikes and rode around 1/4 of the outside of the park before running out of time. It allowed us to peek into the park.

We got to the Guggenheim Museum a little bit faster than walking. It wasn’t a lot faster, though because there was no bike lane here so we rode on the very wide interlock brick sidewalk and had to keep our speed down. We only looked at it from the outside.

We returned the bikes near the MET. Fortunately we hadn’t planned to go in because it was it was very crowded with a long lineup to get in.

We walked through Central Park heading for the Gapstow Bridge – which has very famous views of the New York skyline reflected in a small lake. On the way we passed under another lovely bridge – there are over 30 bridges in Central Park – and an Alice in wonderland statue and some lovely park buildings.

The Gapstow bridge was a bit obscured by vegetation, but the views from the bridge did not disappoint.

We saw many of these rickshaws in the park along with horse drawn carriages.

When Patti and I were in New York City in high school we decided to visit the Russian tea room. We were seated in their opulent dining room and when we told the waitress all we wanted to order was a cup of tea we were told that there was a minimum order for the table and that wouldn’t make it and they sent us upstairs to the cheap seats.

Patti encouraged me to have tea at the Russian tea room while I was here this time. I looked it up on the website and afternoon tea is $80 per person, or $105 if it includes champagne. I decided to just have Michael take a picture of me outside the tea room.

Michael decided a few years ago that he would start wearing business dress on the one or two days a month when he went into work, rather than business casual that had become acceptable over the years. He has acquired a few nice suits, a handsome topcoat, a trench coat, and a number of elegant hats. He looks very handsome dressed for work. As we strolled through Central Park he told me the next thing he was going to need to acquire is a walking stick. Hilariously, as we entered Columbus Circle in search of coffee, we saw a store selling walking sticks. I guess he didn’t see the right one, because he didn’t buy one.

Columbus Circle is a large traffic circle at the Southwest corner of Central Park. Broadway is one of the streets that runs into it. We sat on the corner at Central Park and watched the crowds of people and constant traffic go by.

From there we got the subway back to Times Square. It was quite busy. Then from Times Square we followed the signs for the shuttle to Grand Central. As we walked we realized that we had walked underground in the subway station over to the next stop between Times Square and Grand Central which is Bryant Park. It’s an absolutely enormous underground space.

The day was much warmer than we expected and we carried around our extra clothing all day. I was very happy to get back to the hotel and have a shower before we went out to get dinner. We enjoyed our fish tacos so much last night that we went there again. It was another fine day in New York City. The forecast for tomorrow is also excellent and we plan to head back down to the financial district to see the sites that we missed yesterday.

New York City – Day 6

The day dawned bright and sunny with the promise of a warm spring afternoon despite the fact that it’s still winter. I had breakfast in the room, but today Michael took the day off work, so I got to play tour guide with my newfound New York knowledge.

We took the subway to The 34th St. – Hudson Yards subway station. It was just one train and only three stops. We had to go deep down into the Grand Central subway station. The Hudson Yards station is one of New York’s newer stations. It was the 469th station built, and the first new one in over 25 years, when it opened in 2015. It features the system’s longest escalator and first inclined elevator. It took eight years and $2.42 billion to build. This beautiful mosaic covered the ceiling over the escalator.

Just outside the station we found The Big Apple.

We visited The Vessel and then started exploring the High Line.

I was happy to be there again, as I enjoyed it so much the first time, and I saw things that I had missed.

One of the things I had missed was The Edge Observation Deck at Hudson‘s Yards. Michael pointed out the triangular part of the building sticking out as we looked back at Hudson’s Yards. It was hard to make it out so I pulled out the point-and-shoot with the long telephoto and was able to zoom in and see the people on the deck. We had lots to do so didn’t visit, but when I got back to the hotel I looked it up and the cheapest admission is $34US.

I couldn’t resist taking a few more pictures of the High Line’as we strolled along.

And I was able to pose with this creature and get Michael to take my picture. I sat with another creature by this artist and included it in my blog a couple days ago.

I saw this bike storage locker in the Meatpacking District on our way to Chelsea market for lunch and bathrooms.

My lunch was delicious once again. New York brisket. I’ve heard of it many times including on the show The Marvellous Mrs Maisel, I don’t think I’ve ever had it before.

As we were eating lunch we saw this odd car go by. I took a picture and when we got back to the hotel I looked up “Jaguar with Spinny things” and discovered that it’s a Waymo self driving car. The black thing on the top plus four additional ones at each corner of the car were spinning and are apparently LIDAR.

After lunch we walked around The Meatpacking District and then headed for Little Island Park.

It was a beautiful afternoon and still early when we finished there, so we used bike share to borrow two bikes and ride to the financial district on the Hudson River Greenway. Michael found the bike quite comfortable and the ride not overly taxing. We went about 5 km. The cycling facility is impressive. Separated from both cars and pedestrians it was very comfortable to use. It runs the entire length of the island and is the same path that I was riding on when I went to the Cloisters a few days ago. It is part of New York’s at Empire Trail.

The first docking station we arrived at was full so we carried on to find a second which turned out to be directly in front of the National Museum of the American Indian which Michael visited 47 years ago when he came to New York City with his parents.

On our way to have a look around Battery Park we saw this old entrance to Bowling Green subway station.

Battery Park seemed to be a very large park, and my feet were getting quite tired, so then we went in search of a coffee.

Once again we use Google live view to navigate us to our chosen coffee shop and I noticed this fun reflection when we paused to check the directions.

After coffee we took the subway to Union Square. It has a very large subway station with many lines intersecting. There are 36 lines in total.

Union Square is a large park which was very busy with a market today, many people just enjoying the weather, and a large playground.

There are so many different kinds of food you can buy from trucks here on Manhattan. And a few days ago we saw a truck that sold marijuan. Today we saw the Mitzvah Tank. I thought it was funny that he puts on it that he’s available 24/6.

We had initially planned to get back on the subway, but the weather was so nice, and there’s so much to see which can’t be seen in the subway, so we decided to continue walking.

We passed the Harry Potter store which had a line around two sides of the building to get in just before the Flatiron building, which unfortunately is under scaffolding.

The New York Edition, a building with massive clock faces and a gold dome began life as the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company’s headquarters, but is now a luxury boutique hotel. It was built in 1909.

We sat for a while in Madison Square Park. It was another very busy park. Manhattan Island has the highest population density on the planet. Very few people have their own outdoor spaces, but with all the incredible outdoor spaces in the city, I don’t think one would miss having a backyard too much.

This is one of the plazas that was created from road space a few years ago, even though Madison Square Park is right across the road. Both spaces were very well used.

We caught glimpses of the Empire State building after leaving Madison Square Park.

As we were getting close to our hotel I saw this reflection.

We noticed this restaurant Summer Salt.

Shortly before we got back to our hotel. We checked the menu when we got back and it looked good, so after resting for a while, we went back out and got excellent fish tacos and guacamole and chips for dinner.

It was another great day in New York City and was really nice having company today.

New York City – Day 5

I had hoped that the weather forecast would prove to be wrong, but when I opened the curtains this morning I couldn’t see the river. It was overcast and the street was wet. I couldn’t tell from the 31st floor whether or not it was raining.

I spent some time trying to motivate myself to go out, and deciding what to do. I looked at a number of museums, but also looked at the list of things that I wanted to do outdoors, and even though I’m here a generous eight days, I realized that half of them are already in the past.

In the end I decided to go to DUMBO – Downtown Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass, in Brooklyn across the East River. I decided to take the subway to avoid cycling in the rain, and to have a new experience. I dressed in layers with my yellow rain slicker on top, and my items that I wanted to take with me in my backpack, wrapped in plastic bags in case I got rained on.

I am able to get to the subway from the hotel without going outside. I stopped at a fare machine and was able to determine that the second card Cindy gave me also had funds on it and was able to have them transferred to a card with a new future expiry date.

Google told me to take a train, leave the train and station and walk a block to get to another subway line which doesn’t connect inside, and then transfer to the line that goes across the river to DUMBO.

My plan was to cross the river on the subway using the Manhattan Bridge for the views as represented on this map with the green arrow. But I made a mistake when I transferred and ended up following the red arrow to Williamsburg. The subway also crosses the river on the bridge going on this route so it took me a while to realize I was in the wrong place. Then it took a while to figure out what to do about it. I ended up going back to the station marked DeLancey street and following the blue arrow over to the island which was through a tunnel.

Consequently, a trip which should have been about 30 minutes by subway and would have taken about an hour on bike took an hour and a half. However, I got there in the end, and it’s all part of the adventure. I’ll do better tomorrow when I have Michael along and we use the subway again. I did end up seeing this interesting station which I would not have seen had I not taken the wrong train.

I find it much easier to navigate on the surface. Even when you don’t know the area you can use cues such as where the sun and shadows are and whether or not you can see the water. And in a place like Manhattan, where the streets are numbered, it’s very easy to quickly figure out when you’re going in the wrong direction.

As I emerged from the subway I saw a red flag on a lamp post saying DUMBO and shortly there after the distinctive industrial buildings and glimpses of the bridges and knew I was in the right place.

I’m going to blame the whole situation on the fact that I forgot to get a coffee this morning. I left the room with my mask on and headed straight down to the subway expecting to get a coffee 30 minutes later. Little did I know it would be more than 90 by the time I had one in hand.

DUMBO is a very noisy place with the subway regularly coming over the Manhattan Bridge. There’s also a lot of construction going on in the area.

Many of you will probably recognize this scene which is a very popular one on social media. I asked somebody to take my picture because a selfie just wasn’t working. Michael always thinks when I do this that the person is going to run away with my phone, but I chose someone that looked less fit than I am, and they didn’t try to run, anyway.

The waterfront is beautiful with views of the Manhattan Bridge, Manhattan, and the Brooklyn Bridge.

There are many beautiful and nicely restored industrial buildings.

There is an old carrousel that’s had a glass box built around it to protect it. It is still operable. It’s called Jane’s carousel and was built in 1922.

Empire Stores has been built inside an old industrial building. It’s partly open all the way up to the top with great views of the river and the bridges.

Just as I was finishing up looking at the carrousel it started to rain and was getting quite heavy so, as it was also time for lunch, I headed into Empire Stores to find something to eat.

Unfortunately there wasn’t any outdoor covered area to eat so I did eat indoors, but it wasn’t overly crowded, and I didn’t dawdle. My black Angus cheesesteak was absolutely delicious.

New York’s transportation system offers so many choices. I could have taken the subway back, gone to a bike share to get a bike to ride back, taken a ferry back, or my choice, walk back across the Brooklyn Bridge.

I always seem to spend an enormous amount of time finding food when I travel. It’s compounded when Michael and I are both trying to find food at once because we have different ideas of what we want to eat. I thought this QR code was a good idea. Just hold up your camera to it and will open up a webpage with the local restaurants.

It was a bit convoluted to get there, and quite sketchy in places due to construction, and lacking in signage.

Once I got to the stairs to get onto the bridge it was a 2 km walk to get to the City Hall area on Manhattan. But it was worth it with incredible views. Apparently the bridge can get so busy on nice days that one can only shuffle across, but it was comfortably empty in the misty weather today.

You could see the people in the apartments and their stuff as you walked past this building. It has incredible views, but with the potential lack of privacy on the one side, and the noise from the subway train on the Manhattan bridge on the other, I don’t think I would like to live there.

I’m not sure that it would have been much faster to drive as the cars were often at a standstill underneath the pedestrian area.

There were places that were so broad it felt more like a large pier than a bridge walkway.

There are some beautiful buildings around City Hall including the Woolworth building which was the tallest building in the world from 1913 to 1930. It is still one of the hundred tallest buildings in the US.

After walking around City Hall Park I grabbed a coffee and cookie to have in the park, and then got on the subway to go back uptown.

A lot of the subway stations, including the one under City Hall, are quite rundown.

This was a very useful board on one of the subways and was constantly updated so that the next stop was on the left-hand side and you could see how many stops there were until the one you were travelling to.

I had to transfer at Times Square to the Grand Central shuttle which was a very modern subway car that had no seating.

Michael and I met back at the hotel and then went to Café Hestia to get takeout, again. Our choices weren’t as good tonight, as they were last night, so we will try somewhere different tomorrow.

Despite the mistakes made this morning it was still another wonderful day visiting places familiar to me from social media. It was so wonderful to be able to experience them in person.